This is the mandrel that I made so that I could reverse the base and
turn the bottom of the candlestick holder.
The paper is removed and the base is undercut about 1/8” to 3/16”
to form a stable ring. Turnings stand better on a ring rather than on
a flat base.
Sand the outside edge and the indentation in the base until all the scratches
have been removed and the wood is smooth. Again, I started with 120 grit
paper and worked my way down to 320 grit.
Assembly
When you have decided upon the orientation of the spindle to the base,
apply glue to the tenon. With a slight twisting motion to distribute the
glue better, snug up the joint. If you made the joint correctly, you will
probably only get one shot at this, so make it right the first time!
After the glue has dried for about an hour, I applied a coat of thinned
linseed oil mixture to the candlestick and wiped off the excess. I allowed
the project to dry overnight and then applied a liberal coat of Deft with
a brush. Because I intended this to be just a sealer coat, I immediately
wiped off any excess Deft with a dry, clean rag.
I allowed this to dry for about an hour and then I buffed the project
using the three-step buffing process that I use for most small turnings.
The paper is removed and the base is undercut about 1/8” to 3/16”
to form a stable ring. Turnings stand better on a ring rather than on
a flat base.
|
 |
I use a reamer to establish the taper
that matches the base of the wax candle. |
Note: if you look at
the base of most stick candles, you
will notice a slight taper. While the 13/16” hole bored into
the end of the spindle in the beginning of the process will
support the candle, a taper that matches the angle of the
candle base will help to keep the candle straight and will
help to prevent it from developing a slight lean. I had a
metalworker friend modify a reamer used for machining
metal to duplicate this taper. I used this bit to provide the
final taper after the candlestick had been finished.
Even if you are not planning to be married anytime soon,
you can still make up a pair of these candlesticks and find
some special, romantic place to burn a candle!

Excess stock is removed. Note that I didn’t go exactly up to
the line at first. I’ll do that in the next step so that I will
have a curve instead of a square shoulder. The cove is turned using
a sharp roundnose tool. |
The exterior profile is turned with a sharp spearpoint tool. Note
that I extended the cut below the joint. |
Joe Herrmann’s three – step buffing process
The
first wheel is charged with a tripoli compound. It is slightly abrasive
and so will remove any tiny scratches that might remain and will
it also smooth the wood. The second wheel is charged with a white
diamond compound. It will remove any remaining tripoli compound
and begin the polishing process. The third wheel is charged with
Carnuba wax. It will provide a protective coating and shine the
wood to a gloss finish.
The candlestick is being buffed as the final step in the finishing
process. |
|