| Assembly
Assembling the pens is not difficult (see Fig. 17). All the remaining
pieces are either press fitted into the brass tubes or screwed into previously
inserted parts. I use the pen assembly press available from Steebar to
assemble my pen parts (see Fig. 18). It’s far more accurate than
using vises or clamps and is adjustable for different size kits. It’s
a good investment!
Carefully
inspect the two blanks and experiment with several different combinations
to find the most pleasing arrangement. Try to line up the most significant
portions of the grain and/or color patterns. I’ve seen pens that
were nice but that could have been spectacular if only the maker had taken
the time to find the prettiest match for the parts. Begin with the bottom
half. Press the two end caps into their respective positions. The one
with the threads will house the pen tip. Place the pointed end of the
spring into the end of the rollerball refill and slide the blank over
it, being careful not to dislodge the spring. Screw on the tip.
The notch
that has been pre-cut into the upper tube is probably not in a position
to use. That’s why I disregard it from the start. Instead, I decide
where I want my clip to be positioned and cut a new notch into the blank
with a mototool and a slot cutting burr that I purchased at a local hobby
shop (see Fig. 19).
Don’t be too aggressive. Make the slot a “heavy” 1/16"
deep and just wide enough for the clip. Making the notch too wide and
too deep screams, in my opinion, “Poor quality workmanship!”
Cut from the wood side and have the burr exit from the metal. Reversing
the process will most certainly cause the fragile thin wood to chip. And
that’s not a good thing! (See Fig. 20.) Once the fit is satisfactory,
press the clip into the tube.
A plastic
sleeve secures the top cap to the rest of the pen and protects the point
when it’s not in use (see Fig. 21). It must be adjusted for a good
fit. I use a narrow, flat-bladed screwdriver to insert and adjust this
part. Place the sleeve into the tube, pointed end down. Push the sleeve
into position and engage the little wings inside the sleeve with the screwdriver.
Tighten down the sleeve–about 7 or 8 rotations should do for a start.
Check the fit. The cap should fit tight with no up-and-down slop. If necessary,
tighten the sleeve a half turn and check the fit again, continuing in
this manner until the fit is perfect (see Fig. 22).
Keeping your wooden tubes together as matched sets is important. With
that in mind, I use the simple jig shown in Fig. 23, made from scrap wood
and nails.
Small wood,
plastic, and paper boxes are available to display your pens for sale.
Using them makes a much more attractive and professional display so they
are worth the investment. Just be sure to add the cost to your overhead
and charge accordingly. I use them to display the pens in my booth and
I sell them as an optional accessory to those who want to purchase them.
The pens can be marketed at work, to relatives and friends, and at craft
shows. They also make inexpensive holiday gifts for family and friends.
Good luck!
For any
questions concerning penmaking supplies or this project see our www.Penmakingsupplies.com
web site or call (973)383-1026.
|
This
article reprinted by permission from Creative
Woodworks and Crafts Magazine |
