| Once
I had all the scratches cleared away, I removed the blank from the mandrell.
I carefully inspected the project and noticed that a few scratches were
left on the ends, right up next to the bushings. I hand sanded these areas
with a small piece of abrasive paper to remove any remaining flaws.
I have discovered that, a lot of times, burl wood can be very "punky"
and will absorb a lot of oil. Therefore, I altered my finishing routine
somewhat. I still applied a light coat of Danish oil to the blank because
I like the way it uniformly darkens the wood. But then, with the lathe
running, I applied a heavy coat of a lacquerbased finish (called Deft)
to the wood with a cloth. I let it dry on the lathe for about 5 minutes
and then I applied another heavy coat. Just be careful not to allow lumps
to form on the surface of the finish; they are difficult to remove.
I allowed the finish to dry for about an hour, then I buffed the wood
using the three-step buffing process that I have detailed in other articles.
The first wheel is charged with a Tripoli compound. Because the Tripoli
is slightly abrasive, it will remove any superficial scratches that might
remain on the wood. The second wheel is charged with a White Diamond compound
that removes any excess Tripoli and begins the polishing process. The
third wheel is charged with Carnuba Wax, which polishes the project to
a high shine.
Assembly
There are a lot of parts that must be assembled to complete the project.
Take it slow and follow the manufacturer’s instructions and you
won’t have any problems. I started with the eyepiece first. Remove
the rounded lens from the tape enclosure and place it into the proper
position. Put the metal split ring on top of the lens and screw in the
tube. Don’t bottom out the tube; screw it in about halfway. Start
from the smaller end of the egg and carefully insert the entire assembly
into the drilled hole.
Remove the protective film from both surfaces of the two flat lenses.
I found that the sharp point of an X-acto hobby knife worked best to lift
the corner of the film without scratching the surfaces of the lenses.
Place one of these lenses into the “objective” end cap of
the kit. Next, put the cardboard ring on top of the lens and fill it with
the colored plastic “jewels” that are supplied. Don’t
pack it full; space must be left to allow the jewels to move into different
positions as the kaleidoscope is rotated. You will have to experiment
a little to find the right mix.
When you look at the mirrors, you will see that one surface has a dark
line drawn on it. This surface must be facing to the outside of the tube.
Carefully slide the mirrors into the tube, forming an equilateral triangle.
This should be easy to do; if you have any problems, stop and rearrange
the mirrors until they are inserted properly. Whatever you do, DON’T
FORCE THEM INTO POSITION!
Screw the objective cap into position and rotate both caps, a little at
a time, until they are tightened down evenly. Point the scope toward the
light and rotate it to change the image. Once you are satisfied with the
mix of stones, turn off the TV and pass your kal-egg-oscope around to
your friends and family in your parlor. Enjoy the sights!
|
Fig. 4. Square up the ends of the block with a small detail gouge.
|
Fig.
5. Draw a line 7/8" away from the headstock end of the lathe
to indicate where the beads will start. |
Fig. 6. Use a sharp spindle gouge to form the beads.
|
Fig.
7. The shape should resemble an egg when it is completed. |
This article
reprinted by permission from Creative
Woodworks and Crafts Magazine |
